Lse7806ace Water fills continuously with out shutting off. Water will over flow the unit. In order for the washer to spin and drain, a swift hit on top of the washer is required... What parts do I need to replace?


if the water continues to fill even with power off, and you have to manually shut in off at the wall valve, the 3-way inlet valve is stuck open. you have to replace it. $90

check the pump ,,, if pump wont pump out the washer wont spin till it gets down so low / larryyb

ON the side of the outer tub unit there is a small plastic/rubber hose that goes up to the level switch behind the panel. This sometime fills with water or blocks or is cracked and leaks out air. The purpose of this tube is to hold a pressure in it which increases as the water flows into the tub. This increase in pressure works against a spring tension which you adjust by selection the desired water level. As the water rises the air trapped in the tube reaches a point where the pressure overcomes the setting and allows the switch to turn off the water and move the machine on to the next cycle. Now if all that is working and the machine starts agitating and the water is still coming in then the fault will be in the water inlet solenoid valve . It will have a cracked diaphragm or dirt and will have to be replaced Probably why the machine works when you bash it.

It is most likely the tub seal. Take the two phillips head screws out of the front cover located low on the cover lift forward and remove. Set the machine two low level and fill with water only no soap or clothes when unit starts agitating look at the bottom center of the clothes tub if water is leaking here then you will need to replace the tub seal and tub bearing assembly.

Hi Xinia_s

The lid switch needs to be replaced. although it seems to be working for the water intake valves it will not work for the motor. it is not the fuse. the main fuse sits right above the motor's start capacitor in the lower left side of the lower cabinet; had it been the fuse it would'nt even fill w/ water. have the lid switch replaced and it should do the trick.

After removing the power (easist was to shut breaker off), then replaced fuse just inside upper front left cover area by way of 2 white screws on bottom front panel. Clips secure the top into the horizontial lid panel (which you will also have to remove later if fuse keeps blowing) That worked for a coupe weeks as long as the Cycle Selector dial was always pushed in when you opened/closed the washer lid. Then the the problem returned. Only way out was to partially remove the unit from the wall and remove the lid assembly, which was much easier than first thought. Pictures attached. Tools needed are Phillips screwdriver and Nut drivers to remove the horizontial lid/panel from above the washer tub, and below the timer panel/dryer. Didn't need to remove the angled cover below dryer as Washer Door lid assembly is wholly below. Just push the dryer toward the rear, then remove two larger nuts from top left and top right corners. No nuts at rear, just clips that slide in/out. This allows lid cover to be pulled straight out (I had to remove the overflow tube on front right of tub, and one semi-rusted nut-driven screw from the Hot/Cold filler plate which is at the rear of the lid cover. That will make it easier to manipulate the cover and release the 4-pin plastic connector shown in pictures at the left rear corner. Then the entire cover/lid slides out easily as you may have to push the dryer top back to ease it out. Then flip it over and replace the switch and slide the 4 wire connector back under the plastic trip. and reverse the un-install. 4-pin connector is flat-keyed on one side, but it is tight to get to. My OEM part even included a new fuse (19.95 + shipping) Unit is now working fine for last 2 weeks.b88b41c.jpg8de8e68.jpg798b349.jpg49eb6d1.jpg6f06d50.jpg48c84c4.jpg


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