Washing m/c wont start after finishing cycle with no problem .


I should know this but cant find a manual.The m/c is a Flavel 1200.After finishing washing yesterday,it wont start today.spin indicator light is staying on, which i think is the key to the problem.is the air pressure switch stuck?door switch is dodgy but user says she had no problem with it.regards and thanks.

Turtle nob until it respnds. Sound out of time

Mindurrs, your motor coupling has gone to the great beyond. Time for mourning has passed and now it must be replaced. The job takes about an hour and parts run about $10.00, ready? First, go to your local appliance parts retailer and purchase a coupling, part #285753. You'll need this for repairs. UNPLUG THE WASHER!!! Standing in front of the washer, you'll see two screws on either side of the control panel... remove these then flip the control panel over. Now, toward the right side, you'll see a wire harness that plugs into the top of the top panel, disconnect this. Now, on either side of the top panel, you'll see two brass colored clips. Take a screwdriver and poke it into the hole, use it as a pry bar. Pry the handle of the screwdriver toward the wall behind the washer, the clip will pop out. Now tilt the entire cabinet of the washer toward you to about a 45 degree angle then lift it out of there and set it aside out of the way for now. OK, now we're into the guts of the washer... Look below and in the center, you'll see the drain pump (it has 2 big hoses attached). Behind that, you'll see the motor... that's what you'll be taking off. On the right side of the motor, you'll see the electrical connections. Remove the long white one from the motor. (CAUTION!!! THIS NEXT STEP MUST BE DONE, OTHERWISE PERSONAL INJURY MAY RESULT!!!) You'll see a black round thing mounted to the motor on the right hand side, this is the capacitor. It has 2 red wires on it. (It's basically a 120 volt battery that is just waiting for you to touch it so it can shock you, badly) THIS MUST BE DISCHARGED (voltage drained off) BEFORE CONTINUING. Remove the 2 wires using insulated needle nose pliers. Now, discharge the cap by touching both terminals of the cap at the same time with your needle nose pliers. This will discharge the capacitor so it's safe to handle. Now, above and below the motor, you'll see 2 clips mounted on it, remove the screws that keep these clips in place then (with a flat head screwdriver) pry the clips off the motor. The motor and pump will drop out of there. Rotate the whole thing off to the left (with the hoses still attached to the pump). Now you can see the broken coupling (compare the old one and the new one). Pry the old pieces off the motor shaft and the transmission shaft and throw 'em away. Install the new coupling (notice the semi-triangular shape of the inside of the plastic coupling? I use my screwdriver handle... poke the handle into the coupling, place the coupling squarely on the shaft, then tap [don't BANG] it home with a hammer) and rebuild in the reverse order of dis-assembly! Sounds complicated, but it's not. I've done a thousand of these and it took me longer to type this than it would have for me to do it for you! And, for what it's worth, you have a good washer there. It's actually made by Whirlpool, and well worth the repair.

It appears your motor controller (or main CCU/timer) has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




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Thank You!! You would think they would have put that info in the manual!! Numbskulls!!

Thanks everyone!!!

It spins, but doesn't pumpIf your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. 

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.


It doesn't spin or pump
If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. 


It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess. 


If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.

Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.


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