I have a top loading Maytag Neptune with dual agitators. It stops have way thru whole wash and then stops and starts forever and time will not count down. Sears said it was transmission. I need to get front panel so I can play with it, as it may only be the clutch. Does it just **** off with force or what?


I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley hub, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove clutch pulley hub. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley hub and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley hub to stay on after re-install and power up, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 3.5 yr old $1k machine with out trying a fix. If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found it online and I believe you can order it in PDF format from Maytag. Good luck!

I just went thru my 10th load of a mix of light, medium and heavy loads and all work fine no unbalance errors (DC/UC). Doesn’t fix the tangle problem :) Prior to this fix I could only run the washer with no clothes in it to complete a cycle with no dc/uc error codes.


I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley hub, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove clutch pulley hub. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley hub and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley hub to stay on after re-install and power up, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 3.5 yr old $1k machine with out a trying a fix If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found it online and I believe you can order it in PDF format from Maytag. Good luck!

I just went thru my 10th load of a mix of light, medium heavy loads and all work fine no unbalance errors (DC/UC). Doesn’t fix the tangle problem :) Prior to this fix I could only run the washer with no clothes in it to complete a cycle with no dc/uc error codes.

Im having the same problem what is the lr code and how do you get rid of it?

In my opinion it would be better to download a service manual from the manufactures website to quench your frustration for a small price eric

Hello c bellone,
If you rotate the clutch pulley by hand CW the tumblers should rotate in the wash basket. If you rotate the clutch pulley CCW the tumblers will rotate until the clutch spring comes under tension then the wash basket will begin to turn CCW and the tumblers will stop rotating because the transmission rotates with the wash basket. Do you have this action?
The clutch has been an issue for many are you taking dc or UC errors to the display? This clutch incorporates a Drawn Cup Roller clutch bearing (one way clutch bearing) designed to rotate freely CW and lock up CCW to rotate the spinner shaft in spin cycle rotating the wash basket/transmission CCW. You are halfway thru the clutch removal process, I would drop the clutch out and inspect the roller clutches, clean them up with WD-40 and some light bearing grease. If they are rusted up beyond clean up and or the clutch spring is broken as in this post you will have to replace the clutch. You will know what you are up against once the clutch is out and opened up for inspection.
Here is the process I use for clutch removal;
Access and remove the Clutch for maintenance
Disconnect 120VAC power cord.
The
Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.
Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point.
Remove the front panel see page 41.
Tools required;
3/8 inch socket and socket wrench to remove clutch pulley bolt. Page 47 of the SM
1/2 inch socket or wrench to loosen Drive Motor tension bolt.
5/16 nut driver or 5/16 ¼ socket on an extension to remove front panel see page 41 of the SM.
1. Lean the washer back and blocked in that position for a better reach angle. Rotate 3/8” clutch Pulley Bolt CW to remove clutch bolt.
2. Follow SM page 46 & 47 to remove clutch pulley.
3. Remove 4 screws holding plastic cover on clutch, inspect clutch spring to make sure it is not broken. Inspect roller bearings clean up with WD-40 and re-lube with bearing grease.
4. Replace white bearing plate into clutch pulley hub, insure key slot slips into clutch Spring pin in clutch hub.
5. Replace Clutch plastic cover with 4 screws.
6. Reseat clutch on spinner shaft and rock back and forth while lifting clutch with upward pressure to reseat clutch. When seated properly you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).
7. Do a quick wash and make sure clutch runs true with no wobble or clicking sound. If the clutch has not been seated properly it will spin off. If this happens go to page 16 of the SM Board Output Test and turn on Drain Pump in Service Mode to pump out excess water.
8. Repeat steps 6&7 if the clutch has excessive noise or spins off.


My clutch open up for clean up.

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Mike, Sorry to hear that, is there any water around the clutch pulley?  With the front panel removed and you put the washer in a Spin Only cycle with no clothes in the wash basket.  View the Clutch pulley turning CCW and see if is turning true with no wobble? Mine spun off twice before I got it seated properly, and it was in wobble mode until I got it seated properly.   With the water leak issue maybe you can view with the front panel off and a partial fill the leak source. You can always do a quick tub pump out in service mode. As you know unplug the 120VAC to the machine before you poke around in there.  Do you still have the original clutch?  Did you remove the plastic cover and inspect the roller bearings, clutch spring and coupler? Good luck and let’s see what you find. Rich





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