I have a whirlpool top-loading sensor washing machine model number wtw 4816 FW 0 my question is how can I get my machine to start agitating it's stuck on wash with a full load of clothes and the wash light is blinking


Well, in theory, you remove the top cap (may just pop off or maybe screws off) and you'll see a nut/bolt. Remove this. Sometimes you can soak the top with rubbing alcohol and free it up before you try to lift it off by putting fingers under bottom edge and pushing up evenly from both sides.

If this doesn't work, a gear puller may be necessary.

I would get someone to check if the motor is actually in working order and at the same time check that the water pump is working as it needs to empty the drum in order to go to the rinse cycle other wise it cant move on eric

It is most likely siphoning out. Here is a link that will help explain it and how to correct the problem, let me know if this helps. Thanks

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4621172-clothes_washer_stop_filling_water

Dear Whitworth,

please rate this solution if it meets ur needs, else choose fixya...

The agitator's movement back and forth is important for the cleaning of your laundry. If it doesn't function properly, your clothes won't be as clean as possible. If your agitator does not move, moves only in one direction or its movement is very weak, you will probably need to remove the agitator. Furthermore, in order to inspect the tub for leaks, the clutch assembly, the splines, or to remove the spin drum, you will have to remove the agitator.

The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction.
Various makes and models differ in how the agitator is removed. In some newer models, the agitator just lifts straight up and out. However, in most models you will have to do some combination of the following steps. First remove the fabric softener dispenser, if any. It should either lift or screw off. Next remove the cap. It may lift off, screw off or failing that, it may need to be pried off.
Beneath the cap some agitators are secured in place by a bolt. Use a socket wrench with an extension to remove that bolt. Some Maytags may have a screw near to the bottom of the agitator post that must be removed. Now try to lift the agitator straight up, possibly with a little back and forth rocking motion. Use caution when pulling, the agitator may come loose suddenly and hit you in the face or send you flying backward.
If the agitator is particularly stubborn, you can loop some rope under one side of the agitator at the bottom and then up over a broom handle. Now loop it again under the other side of the agitator and back up to the broom. Brace one end of the broom handle against the top of the washer and lift up on the other end. Double check that you have removed anything that may be securing the agitator in place. Do not use too much force or you may damage the washer cabinet, agitator or injure yourself.
Click here to order replacement parts.


please rate this solution if it meets ur needs, else choose fixya..Thank you.

I can't find your model number on the Sears Parts Site:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

However.

If this is a basic top load, direct drive, Neutral Drain washer, the problem could point to the transmission "Agitate Cams".

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

The agitate cams are used to raise the agitate gear above the connecting rack during the spin cycle.

Following is a Whirlpool parts list for commercial versions of these washers although the consumer model uses the same part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

See part # 62580 (About $15.00)

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

See the following for how to pull the transmission. You don't have to remove the tub!!

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=962131af4fd992034867327e32162166


Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

It sounds like a complicated job but it really isn't and certainly less expensive that a $170 transmission.



Agitation is the most complex operation in any washing machine. There are several components working together to make it agitate and as a result it is a challenge to isolate the problem or problems involved. Here is what to look for:
If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:

Lid switch
Motor coupler
Belts
Clutch
Drive motor
Drive pulleys
Transmission
Agitator
Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.

Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

Transmission The transmission could have either of these problems:


More: