Where do I look ? need larger pictures to see


I have the washer apart and the tub will not move.. locked sort of and when on the machine will not agitate at all. like no power but wiil fill up and empty just no movement

I think you will find that the drum bearings have collapst you will need a possible two bearings, make Shure that you get the right numbers off the side of the bearings its a bit hard to do if you are not mechanically minded, also check the motor for movement eric

The problem is your lid switch. This is a common problem with this model washer, and a very simple & inexpensive problem to fix. Click on the following link for advice on how to replace:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

You can find a replacment switch at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Cabinet Parts" heading on the next page. I believe thats the heading the part is listed under. Sears has excellent part locator drawings to assist you in identifying the part. Once you have the part number identified, you can do some comparative shopping at other online websites too. Use the part number that Sears provides, however. A new switch usually runs about $25 to $35. In addition, make sure you check the lid strike. This is a small plastic piece on the lid that is used to activate the lid switch through a small slot. If the lid strike is broken off, it will give the same symptoms of a defective lid switch. I hope this information helps you. Please post back if you have any questions.

I just encountered the same problem. I think the operation of the machine is such that the motor turns one direction for the spin cycle, and the other direction for the agitate cycle. I am replacing my motor, as I think i have a bad winding on the reverse. I will let you know.

This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plastic piece called a “lid strike” on the lid itself. Make sure the lid strike is not broken off. This will keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and maybe agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you diagnose it and wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.

I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments.

Im sorry to say, it sounds like the transmission in the washer may have gone out, the unit it self sits at the bottem of the main agitator shaft under the the tub, you may be able to have this replaced, but shop around for the right price.

1st I checked the power, compressor in garage had tripped the breaker to the washer circuit. This model has no bells or whistles to tell you if the power is on to the unit. Reset the breaker and unit works.
Thanks FixYa


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