Speed queen washer not getting water at all ,I have changed mixing valve still same,what I have to do next?


Check the ends of hoses for blockage screens might be plugged with dirt .

can i see solution that ziobob got on nov.08 2008

check to see if your pump is slightly plugged with a sock or ?

Your top loader should pump out in about a minute and a half when totally full of water.

your seals and gear case needs replaced

I'm sure you have already bought a new washer BUT......

The repair isn't as hard as you are lead to believe.

First I would check for leakage from the pump.
This is the Most common reason for water under the machine
The pump is a fairly straight forward repair that is a little different on each model of washer, but is usually easy to figure out.

If it is the seal/bearing then that is a more involved repair but not impossible for the average person who is mechanically inclined.
.

The front panel must come off, the the top panel, which is held by two screws in the corner. Lift the top back and disconnect the tub inlet hose. Push it out of the way. I wedge it into the top groove.
Pop off the water level switch hose on the back of the tub.
The tub module needs to come out. It is held upright by several springs. The number varies with the year.
A ready made spring hook can be found by removing and using one of the front springs. I use the one in the front to the left. It's the easiest. It's easier to catch the springs if you hold your hook facing up.
Disconnect the motor harness, leaving the capacitor attached to the harness. Pull it through the frame and out of the way.
Dis-connect the drain hose. there will be water in it so be prepared with towels. Place an old towel on the floor. Now lift the tub module up and out, setting it on the towel. This will keep grease. etc off the floor.
The tub top clips on. Gently pull the tabs out and lift two at a time, just until you break the seal, no more, till you have all of them loose.Remove and put aside. Take out the 4 tub bolts. Don't worry if you break them, the new kit comes with new bolts. The tub is usually stuck to the hub. Put a foot inside the tub and stomp down on one side. It will pop loose. Put tub aside after cleaning old gasket from bottom.
SPECIAL TOOL; you with need a 1 1/2" socket of shrt handled wrench to remove the large nut.
Once it is off there is a nylon lock unit in the grooves with the threads that looks like a crown, cut a slice in it and pull it off. There is a new one supplied.
Remove the hub. Sometimes a puller is needed, don't damage the shaft or threads.
Turn module over.
Remove the 6 bolts around the outside of the tub, the motor bolts on some models and the two holding the counter-balance to the tub.
Lift off the transmission assembly as a unit.
The seal kit has the instructions for your particular model.
If the bearing is a separate 3-bolt unit, replace it as well.
Never leave a bearing that has gotten wet from a leaking seal, or you WILL end up doing the job again in a few months because of a $15 bearing that should have been replaced the first time.
Re-assemble the washer in reverse order.
Spray WD-40, or other lube, on the cork gasket between the tub and hub before installing tub.
Don't forget the nylon lock unit.
If the pump looks like it has been leaking At All, Replace it Now.
When installing the springs, do the back ones first. Hold the hook facing down this time. Install the one you used for a tool last and in the front left side.
Let the washer set for an hour before use, or as directed in the seal instructions. The first cycle should be hot water, without a load .


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