GE frontloader door gasket ripped


Our GE front loading washing machine WCVH6260 is less than 6 months old. We found water on the basement floor and in the pedestal stand drawers beneath. On investigating, we found the door gasket was ripped with no evidence of any sharp objects having been inside to cause such a tear.

We had the same problem. We only washed clothes in it like 3 times and we had water all over our brand new built house. Luckily the store we bought it from brought us a new machine. I refused having them fix it after water ran all inside the machine. Now I have a problem with the washer EATING our clothes up. Lost a packer jersey and 3 pairs of pants!! I'd never buy one again.

I am having the same problem, I complained to GE, also filed a complaint with FTC Bureau of Consumer Protection and The Better Business Bureau.. Lets see what happens

DO NOT EVER EVER BUY ANOTHER GE UPRIGHT WASHER ENERGY EFFICIENT OR WHATEVER THEY CALL IT. THIS IS THE BIGGEST POS*%^^$ I HAVE EVER OWNED. THIS BEARS REPEATING - DO NOT EVER EVER BUY ANOTHER GE UPRIGHT WASHER AGAIN. Seal broke and water flooded everything... All these simple fixes I read on here are great, but if you are interested in patching the hole good luck on finding the hole. This washer has never never cleaned clothes as good as the top loading washer did, not to mention all the problems that come with its flawed design, flawed door boot (gasket), mildew growing like wildfire inside the door boot... What a complete mess this is..

Replacing gasket is fairly simple - need 2 people. UNPLUG FIRST - 1. Remove the plastic cover on top of machine that is mounted to back of control panel. 2. remove dispenser - push down on tab at back and it will slide all the way out. 3. Remove lower front cover by removing 3 screws holding it on bottom. 4. Remove 3 screws holding top panel on back of machine and slide cover back approximately 1 inch and lift off. 5. Remove the 3 screws that hold the control panel on - note these are different type of screw so keep track of which screw goes where - one of the screws is next to dispenser opening. Once this is done you can reach in to machine and disengage locking tab on right side under "washer temp" - have someone hold this part aside if you do not want to disconnect the cables. 6. Remove spring loaded wire securing door seal to front cover. 7. Remove the the 4 screws holding the front cover on. This item is a bit heavy so be careful. Disconnect the three door latch wire harness and place this aside. 8. On the right side of the gasket you will find the clamp screw that holds the seal to the drum - loosen this screw almost all the way and remove this wire clamp. carefully remove the two tube connections and remove the gasket completely. Take note how these were installed before removing. Now you can carefully clean the gasket seats on the drown and door and replace the gasket and reverse the steps to put the machine together. While you have the covers off it would make sense to remove and clean the pump strainer mounted on the lower cross support - this can be messy with lots of water coming out so go slowly and have plenty of towels and a shallow pan to catch the water with. HOPE this helps.

I have replaced this gasket twice on my washer and when it got ripped the third time (not under warranty) i decided to try to fix it, this time it had a rip about three inches long, for anyone having this same problem go to your local auto parts dealer, I went to checker. and ask for a tube of "the right stuff". find the rip and cake it on, IT WORKS. it comes in a tube like cheese in a can. squirt it all around the hole then get your fingers wet with soapy water and smear it around till smooth I did this about two months ago and its still holding. and just today the was a new smaller hole in a different area I used it again and it seems to be working just as well. an easy fix it only cost $16.00 and no waiting for service guy

Isn't it interesting that when NEW AND IMPROVED is NOT? We are told the 'old style' washers are unavailable to us, yet when it comes to fixing the old style, it was simple. My son called me today and told me grandma's washer was done-+40 years. O.k. I agree. But my last new washer lasted me 20+ years, cause I could fix what needed to be done in less time than it took to shop for a new one. Ask any honest washer repair person and they will tell you there is only about 4 things that can go wrong with a washer, and most things are interchangable with any other part of the same brand. Lots of history of washer machines with this brand and that brand made by the same company, this part fits in that other brand machine.
Anyway, we called a retired washer repair man, he had a couple and for $140, got a 6 year old machine with all the cycles to go for at least another 15 years!
By the way, I am a sud-saver person--and Maytag was the last company to make those about 8 years ago. My contribution to being green. Joyce N

I have owned this unit for almost 3 years first time the gasket has been shredded. But I have noticed torn clothing before and wrote it off to overloading now I know better. Has this unit not been recalled yet due to a manufacturers defect? If not why not? Can we seek reimbursement for the damaged clothing from GE?

It should still be under warranty

I Agree we have had this washer for about 5yrs we haven't had any trouble aside of the seal around the door is so dirty from black junk from water setting there.. I wash it off all the time but it just comes back. Now it's permanently stained. I can't get it off and want to know the part no to find out how much a new seal will be? Can you order them anywhere but from GE if so where and what is the part no. thanks Rachel humphrey
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I had my GE washer for 1 year when the door gasket ripped. And it was a long rip - around 12 inches! I heard that the gasket cost $150 plus $30 shipping plus around $100 to install for a total of just under $300. Being in the economic crisis of 2009 I decided to do what they did in the great depression - FIX IT.

One bike tire tube and GOOP plumbing glue did the trick. Total cost was around $6. I used GOOP plumbing glue because it is good for up to 150 degrees F. First I used duct tape on the underbelly of the gasket. For this you must remove the outer metal ring so that you can get your hand and tape up under the gasket. Once this was done I cut the bike tire tube to size and patched the rip. I let it cure for 24 hours. I've done dozens of loads even on sanitation and have NO leaks! Want to stick it to GE? Then refuse to give them more money (profit) for a defective part. If this didn't work I was going to plop down $300 for a top load washer and call it a day.

I have the same issues as all of you. I am going to file a claim against GE's insurance called a "subrogation" claim to get back the money for my repair and for the damage to my floor and drywall. They will send a check versus wanting to acknowledge there is a concern. I am also going to file a claim with the consumer affairs dept. Good luck everyone


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